{着装礼仪}怎样根据颜色、样式和出席场合来选择合适的领带?How to choose a suitable tie?

{着装礼仪}怎样根据颜色、样式和出席场合来选择合适的领带?How to choose a suitable tie?

先生们,往期文章中,我们已探讨了领结的不同系法,本文将进一步介绍领带的佩戴场合、颜色及花纹。工作面试不确定怎样选择合适的领带?来看看本期领带佩戴方法。

Dear gentlemen, we already saw many different tie’s knots but we didn’t clarify when you should wear a tie, which colour, which patterns? You have a job interview and are uncertain about the tie you chose? I invite you to discover the tie’s rules

为什么要佩戴领带?

Why the tie?

这一男士配饰有助于减弱或增强不同的身形比例。掌握服装整体颜色搭配至关重要,而领带则是颜色连贯性的细节体现以及整体造型协调的关键。

This masculine accessory helps to attenuate or accentuate the different contrasts in our outfit. It is about mastering the colour’s associations on your attire with the colours ranges. The tie is the detail of the coherence and the key of your outfit harmony.

套装中,领带是唯一能体现穿衣者个性的元素。花纹的选择有助于让整体造型生动起来,当然没有花纹也不会错。

In a suit, the tie is the only element you can use as an original style, patterns will help to galvanize your attire, but no worries, the non-pattern tie never is a “faux-pas”.

花纹

The pattern

充满活力的常规条纹或直线条纹、圆点、格子纹等样式都能用于工作场合。

Regular or straight line stripes bring vigorousness, polka-dot, check, etc. all those different patterns can be used in a work suit.

花纹样式推荐细条纹或圆点,避免大尺寸花纹或与套装重复的样式。不要选择有动物、水果、人物或其他离谱符号的样式,也不要轻易尝试那些带有画渍或底纹的“艺术领带”。

Favour thin stripes and polka-dot, avoid every big size patterns and repetitions. All the animals, fruits, characters or any outrageous symbols are to forbid. It is the same idea for the “artistic” ties with painting stain or shadings.

错误示范

Outrageous patterns to avoid

素色套装能有效突出花纹领带,两者的结合体现出优雅精致的穿衣风格。但如果身穿带花纹的套装,就要选择与套装花纹同色的领带。

The goal is to value the patterned tie, so wear it only with a plain suit for an elegant and sophisticated style. But if you wear a patterned suit, choose a tie with the same colour of the suit’s patterns.

避免套装与领带两者花纹的重复。套装和领带可以同时具有条纹元素,但确保条纹的大小、颜色、方向和间距不一样。

Avoid the “pattern repetition”, you can wear stripes on your suit and tie but be sure the stripes are not the same size, colour, direction and space.

颜色

The colour

领带颜色的选择应从细节处得到启发:如佩戴与鞋子、皮带、纽扣等配饰同色系的领带。

The right choice about the tie colour is in the details: inspire yourself with the colour of your shoes, your belt, your buttons, etc.

关于黑领带:黑领带简单严肃,日常生活不建议佩戴,通常用于出席一些重要场合,如葬礼。黑领带搭配黑套装、微紧身长裤、马甲、白衬衫、黑皮鞋能使整体造型精致庄重。除了这些特殊场合,日常生活中,服务生常佩戴。

About the black tie: I do not recommend you to wear it, it is too common and simple for the daily life, but for an important occasion as a funeral, a high dining reception, etc. you can have a very sophisticated look with a black suit, the cigarette-trouser, a waistcoat, white shirt and black derbies. Except for these particular occasions, in fact, you may notice that it's mostly for waiters.

套装主色调为蓝色:领带可以保持蓝绿色调,但也可选择黄、橙或红色来增加亲和感。

If the suit dominance is blue: you can as well stay in blue or green tones, but you can wear yellow, orange and red ties to bring warmness to your attire.

套装主色调为灰色:任何颜色都可以和灰色调搭配,但是尽量避免茶色和蓝绿色,这些颜色显得人太过严肃冷淡。

If the suit dominance is grey: every colour is possible with this tone, I just recommend you to avoid maroon or cyan, those colours give a too serious and cold style.

套装主色调为米色-棕色系:优先选择蓝、绿和红色(领带颜色应比套装更浅或更深)

If the suit dominance is beige-maroon: chose in the first-place tones as blue, green and red (more or less intense).

套装颜色为非常规色:选择与套装同色系或相反色系的领带(比如,蓝绿色套装选用蓝/绿色领带或红色领带搭配。)

If the suit dominance is a special colour: you can as well choose a tie according to your suit, in the same colour tone or chose one in the opposite ton (for example, if you have a cyan suit you can either choose a green or blue tie or either choose a red one).

场合

The occasion

面试:领带要朴素。无花纹领带搭配优雅的暗色系或中性色系套装显得更专业。

The job interview: the tie should be as sober as possible. You must value your professionalism with a non-patterned tie and an elegant dark and neutral suit.

日常工作: 根据公司的风格和所属的部门来选择。对于设计部门和销售部,可尝试明亮轻快的颜色;对于金融财务部门,需要凸显优雅和精致:推荐深色系的丝制领带和其他上文推荐过的样式。

The workdays: adapt your tie to your society’s style. For creative and sales department, coloured ties are great and appropriate. But financials department will prefer elegance and refinement: the silk tie in sober colour is always perfect, as well as any assortment we saw before.

家庭聚会:通过领带打造自己的原创风格:大胆尝试不同的花纹和颜色,推荐轻松的浅色调。(深色领带太过严肃)

The family reunion: you have all rights to use your tie to have a more original attire: patterns and colours are welcomed. But I recommend you to opt for light colours (dark colours are too serious).

公司聚会:领带的选择应根据聚会主题来确定。根据白领结着装规则不会错。想了解更多?可查看《白领结盛典不打领带 No tie for a White Tie gala》。

The society invitation: the tie must be chosen depending on the theme chosen by the hosts. But you will be able to wear the white tie attire. To know more about it, here is our previous article《白领结盛典不打领带 No tie for a White Tie gala》.

男士们,希望你们现在能对领带及其佩戴方式、场合、搭配了然于胸。如果想进一步了解领结的系法,请参见《{五十度灰第七期} 4种经典而优雅的领带结打法Tie etiquette, 4 elegant knots》,《什么是Black Tie Dress Code?》。

Dear gentlemen, I hope you are now more familiar with tie and how to wear them, where and with what kind of suit. If you want to know how to knot your tie, here are our previous articles《{五十度灰第七期} 4种经典而优雅的领带结打法Tie etiquette, 4 elegant knots》,《什么是Black Tie Dress Code?》.

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